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Another great wine dish is Kurobuta pork chop napped in a velvety black mole that spills into a shallow puddle accented with toasted pepita seeds. The mole is an intricate embroidery of flavors, so tightly massed it's impossible to pull them apart. That's great, but the Maya puerco pibil, pork braised in a banana leaf, takes pork shoulder to a whole new level of tenderness.
In fact, in all of my visits, the only dish that misses the mark is piquillo pepper stuffed with Gruyère -- the cheese is too rich and heavy. Final flourish Desserts are pared to a few, most ideal for sharing. Like the baba cachaça, a yeast cake soaked in the white Brazilian spirit rather than the typical rum. It looks like a religieuse pastry dressed up for a wedding with frilly whipped cream peeking out from the cake and a clutch of grapefruit and blood orange segments on the side to set off the aching sweetness. Estudio en flan is a study of three tender, differently flavored flans, a perfect ending to a fascinating meal. Until now, Sedlar has been performing to a half-full house. The question is whether the kitchen and staff can perform at this same high level when the restaurant is truly busy. Right now they have plenty of time to do everything right. Sedlar is still fussing with the menu and the ceviche bar isn't yet in full production. What goes down once the crowds start coming in earnest will determine whether Rivera will become one of L.A.'s great restaurants. What Sedlar has proven is that he's more than capable of cooking at the highest level. And also that he's one of L.A.'s most original chefs. Sui generis. irene.virbila@latimes.com
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